I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.

It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.

Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.

When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

The life of men and women is so cheap and property is so sacred. There are so many of us for one job it matters little if 146 of us are burned to death.

Once, I played a doctor who had a near-death experience, so I researched it, and it's impressive what people are saying about what happened to those who've been through it: it changed their lives completely, made them different people after that. I find that immensely comforting.

He that lives to live forever, never fears dying.

I don't feel scared about death, I just feel so frustrated and sad to think I won't see how stories end. My children's story. My wife's. The football. All the stories going on in the world that you're going to miss the end of.