I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.

It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.

Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.

When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

Anything that has a relationship with pleasure, we reject it. Eating, they talk about cholesterol; making love, they talk about AIDS; you talk about smoking, they talk about cancer. It's a very sick society that rejects pleasure.

Love before marriage is absolutely necessary.

I'm lucky that I do something I love, and I am proud, as I think it's a positive message to give to young women: if you want to have a career and be married with children, then you can. It's full-on, but it's doable.

Often, romantic comedies exist in a vacuum, and it's kind of odd.